Where There's Smoke, There's Fire
Where There's Smoke, There's Fire
Written by Menna Elbadry
New York barbecue is a religion of smoke and time, a slow art form perfected in smoky temples from Brooklyn to the Bronx. In Cairo, the grill is a fiery, immediate ritual, a language of charcoal-kissed kebab that crackles to life on street corners. Can the language of American smoke find a new dialect in the land of spice and charcoal? On a special night during Cairo Food Week, that question was answered at Cantina, where legendary pitmaster Billy Durney greeted guests with the scent of slow-cooked short ribs. He was joined by two of Cairo's most dynamic rising stars: Dina Hosny, a Le Cordon Bleu graduate elevating Middle Eastern cuisine, and Hazem Abdelghany, the creative force behind Cool Cat with experience from Italy's iconic Osteria Francescana.
Stepping away from the grill, Chef Durney kicked off the evening with raw, infectious energy. He spoke with passion about cooking in Cairo before revealing the charming discovery that became the night's mission: he had become infatuated by molokhiya and was weaving the Egyptian staple into the service.
The menu unfolded as a culinary dialogue, with exquisite beverage pairings from Egybev enhancing each course. The dishes themselves were a testament to the night's premium ingredients, showcasing masterfully sourced meats from Carnistore and impeccably fresh seafood from Seasalt. The journey began with a trio of exquisite bites: a buttery brisket croquette, a crisp lettuce tartlet, and a delicate Ajo blanco brightened by sweet, marinated cherry tomatoes. This led seamlessly into the main acts, where each chef’s philosophy shone on the plate. Chef Hazem’s Yellowtail with nectarine and shiso was a study in bright, balanced flavors. Chef Durney followed with a pillowy, crisp flatbread bearing Kung Pao shrimp and rich bone marrow butter, a testament to his textural genius. Then, Chef Dina’s charred lasagne offered a stunning reinterpretation of a classic, its elegant, crepe-like fold revealing a rich oxtail ragu that danced on the tongue.
The final act was not a single platter, but a procession of three main courses that brought the evening to its peak. The hero dish that brought the NY-meets-Cairo story full circle arrived first: 10-hour beef plate short ribs served unconventionally and brilliantly over fluffy Egyptian vermicelli rice, the promised molokhiya transformed into a rich, savory sauce that enveloped every bite.
Next, a stunning loomi rubbed duck breast was presented, its skin perfectly crispy and the meat meltingly tender. It was served alongside confit duck legs and brightened by smoked seasonal citrus and a cilantro fennel salad. The final savory course was a beautifully presented grilled grouper, its delicate flavor enhanced with a vibrant sweet pepper salsa.
To conclude this epicurean journey, a smoked lemon curd with kumbo and white chocolate provided a very fresh and welcomed, palate-cleansing grace note. As the night drew to a close, a final, thoughtful touch underscored the event's artistry: guests were gifted beautiful silk scarves, with a delicate motif of olives, figs, and grapes; a tangible memory of a night steeped in flavor and craft.
The evening was more than just a meal; it was a triumph for the Cairo Food Week team, a vibrant testament to the power of culinary collaboration to transcend borders and ignite new traditions.
